How to Make a 3ft. Mini Ramp
This mini ramp is 3ft. tall (from the ground to the top of the deck), 8ft. wide and 24'-0 from end to end (including each deck).
Mini Ramp shown with Screw Jack option Don’t interpret incorrectly that small means “not as tough”. There are a world of applications that have a target height that is one-half or less of normal dock height. Free Mini Ramp Plans. A skateboard mini ramp is basically a shorter version of the half pipe ramp. It does not move toward vertical in its slope and has extensions on both the sides for standing. It has a flat base and is shorter in length than a half pipe. A mini ramp is not only a halfpipe. A “ Vert Ramp ” is any skateboard ramp that at one point goes completely vertical in the transition (aka tranny). The transition is the sloped or curved part of the ramp. Typically, ramps over 6-7 feet in height will contain some vert. Plans for how to build an indoor mini ramp halfpipe. This halfpipe can be separated into three pieces so that it is possible to move. The height of this ramp is 3' 5', you can make it any height under that. The width is 8' and can be easily adjusted.
Aswith all structures here on DIYskate, you can build this mini ramp anysize you want. However, for the material list to be accurate, you willneed to follow the plans as listed below.
Keep in mind thatthis ramps measurements was not chosen at random. I spent weeksengineering a ramp that would be cost and material efficient, fun toride and most important, sturdy and safe.
Where to get your Supplies
The wood and hardware can befound at most home improvement stores. Sometimes you can find the steelthere as well, I know my local Home Depot carries the coping andthreshold material.
If not, check the phone book. Look up Steel, Steel Yards, Steel Fabricators, Scrap Steel & anything else with Steel in the title.
Ifthis ramp is going to stay outside, it needs to be protected from theelements. A good place to start is with pressure treated lumber, paintand a tarp. You may want to invest in a composite material for thesurface too. Such as Skate Lite or Ramp Armor.
Be extra careful when working with treated lumber though, the chemicals used to treat the wood contain a poisonous pesticide.
Choosing a Location for your Mini Ramp
Ideally, alevel driveway or concrete pad would be the best spot for your miniramp. But ramps tend to get pretty big and backyards and fields end upbeing the only place large enough for them.
If you're placingyour mini ramp on terra firma (earth) you'll need to make footings, orpads that the half pipe will sit on. You can do this similar to the wayyou build a deck for a house, with concrete blocks.
I've written a separate page on ramp foundations, because it's more than can be covered in a paragraph.
♠ Ramp Foundations
Build it
Below is a cut list referencing what you will need and it's size.
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Transition layout Diagram
Gather two sheets of 3/4' plywood for the side templates. One sheet of 3/4' ply will provide two sides.
Use CDX or better grade plywood. Particle board is not acceptable for any skate structure, period.
Drawing the transition
Take an 8' long 2×4 and on oneend, drill a hole the diameter of a pencil (about 3/8'). Then measurefrom the hole you just drilled, the length of the transition radius. Inthis case, 6'-0. Place a screw there but don't go all the way throughthe 2×4 yet.
Takeyour 3/4' plywood and lay it on a fairly level surface. Grab anothersheet of plywood and place it next to the 3/4' plywood as shown below.
Withthe 2×4 you made earlier, screw the screw into the top piece of plywoodwhere shown above. Now you want to draw a radius using the 2×4 to guideyour pencil until you have the transition radius clearly visible on the3/4' sheet of plywood.
Oncedrawn, measure up 2'-11 1/4 from the bottom left side. Using a straightedge, mark this and the notch for the coping to complete thetransition. The notch for the coping is 1 1/4' by 1 3/4'.
Cut the transition
With a jig saw, very carefully cut on the lines you drew for the transition. Once cut, you can use this as your template to trace the three remaining transition sides.
You'llonly need two 3/4' sides for each 8' ramp section. Most ramps are madein 4' sections but this ramp is small enough to get away with an 8'span. Cut the templates and set them aside.
Framing the Transition
Gather thirty four, 7'-10 1/2long 2×4's for the transition sections. Each 8' wide transition sectionrequires seventeen 2×4's. This includes the deck portion as well.
Takefive of those 7'-10 1/2 long 2×4's and start framing this section byplacing two 2×4's at the back, one at the front and two on the top nextto the coping notch as shown above.
Adding Supports
Place two 2'-9 long 2×4's under the deck 2×4's where shown below. Use about eight, 1 5/8' screws to attach each one.
These add extra support for the deck and need to be placed on each side in both transition sections.
Framing the Transition continued
Now attach twelve7'-10 1/2 long 2×4's, 8' on center unless noted otherwise as shownbelow. Once this has been done, repeat the process for the secondtransition section and set them aside for now.
The2×4's that are doubled in the lower portion of the riding surface arenecessary to create a larger surface area for the seam of the first3/8' plywood layer to.
Framing the Flat Bottom
Gather fifteen 7'-9 long 2×4'sfor the flat bottom supports. You'll also need two, 8' long 2×4's forthe sides of the flat bottom section.
Attach the 7'-9 long 2×4's to the 8' long 2×4's, 8' on center as shown below to finish the flat section.
Pre drill the screw locations at the ends of the 2×4 with a 3/16' drill bit to keep the wood from splitting.
Also, as with the transition, the 2×4's must be doubled where shown for the first layer of 3/8' plywood.
Mini Ramp Blueprints
Placing the Ramp
Now that all of the framing is done,the sections can be attached to one another. Hopefully you have theramps final location all squared away too. If not you can learn moreabout ramp foundations here.
Startby having a friend help you move one transition section into place.Then place the flat bottom section next to the transition. Finally,place the last transition section next to the flat bottom section.
Onceall of the sections are in place, make sure that they are level and fittogether properly. Then double check that they are fitting togethercorrectly. After you have done this, clamp the sections together tomake sure they aren't going anywhere. I use quick clamps, but most any clamps will work.
Assembling the Ramp
If your mini ramp is on a concreteslab, you can attach the transition and flat bottom sections togetherusing 2 1/2' screws. Screw them together from each side of the bottomwith about six screws per side.
Ifyou are placing your ramp on footings or concrete blocks, drill fourequally spaced 5/8' holes. Now bolt the sections together using four1/2' bolts with nuts and washers per side, as shown below.
Buying the coping
To find the steel, look up 'steel yards', 'structural steel' or 'steel fabricators' and so on in the phone book.
Theactual size of the steel pipe that you are looking for is 2 3/8'(60.33mm) outside diameter. With a wall thickness of 7/32'. This pipeis known by steel shops as...
♠ 2' OD, Schedule 80, black steel pipe
Some steel shops are picky about what it's called so use the above name if they seem confused.
Youcan also use schedule 40 steel pipe (5/32' wall) as it is cheaper andlighter, but it may become dented. Schedule 80 pipe on the other handwill not dent under normal skateboarding use.
Do not use PVC pipe (plastic) or electrical conduit, if you want it to last.
Cutting and Drilling the Coping
Cut your steel pipe into two pieces at 8' long with a steel cutting blade (carbide blade) and miter saw or circular saw.
Now we need to attach the steel coping to the ramp. I am going to cover two of the most common methods.
Thefirst method being screws. If done properly, screws will hold thecoping secure for the life of your ramp. Also, you will rarely if evernotice the holes while skating the ramp.
Start by marking thepipe about 3' in from the ends and then about every two feet inbetween. Now drill a 3/8' on the outside and a 3/16' hole on the insideof the pipe.
Attach the Coping w/ Screws
Once drilled, place thecoping in the notch on the mini ramp. Rotate the pipe so that thescrews will hit the 2×4 close to the center. Now place the screws inthe holes and screw the pipe down snug.
After you're done, go back with a screwdriver and make sure the screws are screwed down tight.
Attach the Coping w/ Bolts
Toattach the coping to the mini ramp with bolts, you will need to drillholes in the 2×4 behind where the coping will sit. Mark the 2×4 aboutan 1 1/2' down from the top, 6' in from each end. Also mark two in themiddle at 2'-4 apart. Drill a 3/8' hole in each marked location at aslight downward angle.
Oncethe 2×4 has been drilled, place the coping in the notch on the miniramp. Use the previously drilled holes to mark the coping. Remove thecoping and drill the 3/8' holes where you have just indicated.
Feed a hook bolt into the holes youdrilled and place the coping in the notch on the mini ramp, whilelining up the bolts with the holes in the 2×4. Tighten the bolts downsecure to the 2×4 using nuts and washers.
The bolt at the bottom of theillustration on the right is also known as a clothesline hook and isthe most common for this application. However, hook bolts come in avariety a shapes and sizes. You can use almost any of them as long asthey are about 3' in length and have a 3/8' diameter.
Covering the Decks
Now that you have the coping all taken care of, it's time to cover your ramp. Start with the decks.
Mini Ramp Bmx
Cuttwo sheets of 3/4' plywood down to 2'-9 wide. Attach a sheet to eachdeck portion of the ramp with 1 5/8' screws. Space the screws about afoot apart from each other on the studs below.
Youmust hit the 2×4 supports with the screws. A good way to accomplishthis is with a chalkline or straight edge and pencil. Use the screws onthe sides of the ramp as guides for the 2×4 supports.
Covering the Ramp
Place a sheet of 3/8' plywood on theramp. Push it flush against the coping and begin attaching the ply with1 5/8' screws. Start at the top and work your way down, going from leftto right like reading a book. You may need someone to help you hold theply in place while you get the first few screws started.
As with the deck, mark the location of the 2×4 supports and space the screws about a foot apart.
Next,take another sheet of 3/8' plywood, push it flush against the previoussheet and attach it in the same way placing the screws about a footapart.
Once you've attached the first two pieces, do the same to the other side of the ramp leaving the center exposed as shown above.
Mini Ramp
Theidea is, you shouldn't have to cut the center sheet for it to fit. Thespace should work out to four feet. But if you do have to cut thesheet, it's much easier to figure it out here than on the transition.
Second Layer of Plywood
On the second layer, you don'twant the plywood seams to be in the same place as the bottom layer. Socut a sheet of 3/8' plywood in half and attach it to the ramp the sameway as the others.
Keep adding full sheets until you reach the other side and the coping. Cut the last ply to fit if necessary.
Mini Ramp
Attaching the Final Layer
Start with a full sheet ofmasonite and press it flush against the coping just like the firstlayer. Keep adding sheets until you reach the other side. Once again,cut the last one to fit if necessary.
The coping should stick out 3/8' fromriding surface. If it sticks out too much, place wood shims under themasonite, near the coping to raise the masonite. Shims are available atyour local hardware store.
Mini Ramp Kit
Themain difference with masonite is that you need to countersink the screwhole locations before you screw the masonite down. You can do this witha countersink bit, or a 3/8' drill bit and a steady hand.
You also will need to space the masonite sheetsabout 1/16' to 1/8' from each other. This keeps them from bubbling upwhen they expand due to temperature change. I use pennies to space them.
Finished 3ft Mini Ramp
Check everything before you skate it, but you are done. I didn't add a railing because the ramp is only 3'.
If you have made it this far, you are the proud owner of a brand new 3' mini ramp.